Europe’s wildest pilgrimage route: a trek through the mountains of north-west Sweden

<p>A remote 18th-century chapel deep in Sami lands is the goal of the Präststigen, a 37-mile trail that traverses some of the country’s most spectacular scenery</p><p>I wasn’t exactly in “Sunday best”, but I had made <em>some </em>effort. Well, I’d changed my underwear